A long bus ride took us down through Croatia to the coastal town of Split, where we were to transfer across to our island hideaway. Armed with crappy bus station snacks we watched Croatia roll by for several hours, heading through mountains and rocky plains to the coast. As the sun came down over the white rocky cliffs we descended into Split. After checking in to a tiny flat right near the bus station we wandered through the incredible old town and found a cool little bar with a man playing guitar. Negronis and a cheese platter in a cobbled alley perfected the evening.
The next morning we hit the docks for our ride to our secret island. We were heading to Vis for a week of beach lounging and recuperation from our adventurous yet recently doomy escapades. Although now a quiet little isle with a reputation for food and wine, Vis has an interesting history as home to a military base used by Tito during the era of Yugoslavia. The base included a few secret bunkers and the island was off limits for a few decades.
Since then the island has a small population, two towns and is stunning. As it was past the end of the tourist season and the weather was beginning to get cold a lot of places were closed and it was getting a bit of a ghost town feeling. This was compounded by the fact that we were staying in Komiza which was the smaller town of Vis across the island from the main port.
Our apartment was perched at the top of the tiny town with a gorgeous view of the bay from the balcony. As the island is known for its wine we wasted no time in indulging in this culinary delicacy.
As mentioned before we were a bit late in the summer season and the weather forecast did not bode well for our beach plans. Luckily our first day there held some moderate heat so we hired a scooter for the day to explore the island and find some beachy paradise.
Riding past the many small grape vineyards and patterned stone piles from the crumbling remnants of ancient Roman ruins we crossed the island in half an hour to the main port of Vis town for lunch. After a short stroll around the alleys and closed shops with our bellies stuffed with pizza we jumped back on the bike longing for a swim.
The first beach we visited was Stončica. Just outside of Vis town down a forested path the tiny beach is one of the only sandy beaches on the island. Small and cute, the beach had a few visitors sunning themselves on the pebbles and a few kids running around the volleyball net eating icecream and making a rukkus. After sitting on the shore for a bit we decided to explore further for our swim.
The curling island road lead us around the coast to our next destination. Srebrna beach was absolutely stunning, consisting of large white pebbles and forested cliffs with the clearest blue water we had ever seen. After warming ourselves sufficiently in the sun we submerged ourselves in the temperate salty waters. The beach was deserted except for one man who seemed a little put out that we had showed up and he had to put on clothes. So instead of clothes he put on a full wetsuit and disappeared into the blue.
After our swim we explored the rocky cliffs and forest. Returning to the bike wet and happy we rode the beautiful coastal road back to Komiza. That evening we were picked up in a minivan and taken to a family run restaurant in the garden of a local villa. We ate huge portions of the local slow roasted casserole and drank a bottle of delicious local wine. On the way home our minivan was graced with the presence of a horde of children who could not stop singing ‘Yellow Submarine’ and the driver was ready with a mixed tape of the Beatles. The ensuing singalong was filled with shouting, raucous laughter and fierce debate around the lyrics.
When discovering things to see and do on this tiny isle we were met with the quiet wall of ‘End of season.’ After emailing a tour group we managed to wrangle ourselves a tour of Tito’s military bases, but when we showed up we were left hanging. A day later we got an apology email saying they had forgot. Fortunately we had more success organizing a bout trip to the famous Blue cave. A tiny cavern which is illuminated with an eerie and unnatural looking blue light. On a tiny speed boat we were whisked away almost flying off the waves of the rough seas to the small rock of Biševo island which contained the cave.
We were transferred to a smaller boat, the purpose of which we were soon to learn. As we made our way across a treacherous and rocky stretch of sea towards a rocky cliff face, we floated closer and closer to the sheer rock and began to wonder where the cave was. Soon we noticed a tiny hole in the bottom of the cliff and with sinking stomachs realised we were heading at it. With a hurried shout of ‘duck’ our captain rammed his boat into the tiny opening, scraping the sides along the jagged rock as he did so. We had to cower in the bottom of the boat so we would not be decapitated as we made our way into the cave. The blue glow was amazing and seemed to emanate from the sea itself.
The last of our island days trickled past in quiet walks around the stone village and gorgeous surrounds. Tahn became sick of the constant photo onslaught of Emmily snapping pictures of his butt walking through the scenery. Complaining that it was his turn to take photos of her butt.
More pictures of pretty Komiza
Also there was a ton of cats everywhere.
And of course we can’t fall to mention the fun times had drinking the Absinthe we bought in Prague.